A love letter to the Hirschen in Sulzburg

There are places you return to not just for the outstanding food, but because they do your soul good. For me, the Hirschen in Sulzburg is exactly that kind of oasis – a place I have visited time and again over the years, and one that leaves me profoundly happy every single time. Quite simply, it is a magnificently run establishment that delights with its passion, family warmth, and an incredible culinary depth.

Location & History

Nestled in the picturesque wine-growing region of the Markgräflerland, right on the edge of the Black Forest, this historic, listed building stands at Hauptstrasse 69. An inn has been documented here since 1726, and you can feel this centuries-old tradition in every corner. In 1979, top chef Hans-Paul Steiner and his wife Claude acquired the property, developing it into one of Germany’s most prestigious addresses. Today, their daughter Douce Steiner and her husband Udo Weiler carry this legacy forward with a perfect balance of tradition and modernity.

The Chef

Douce Steiner is an exceptional figure in German-speaking gastronomy. After training in her parents' business, she refined her craft under absolute legends such as Georges Blanc in Vonnas and Harald Wohlfahrt in the Schwarzwaldstube, before taking the helm of the kitchen at the Hirschen in 2008. Her culinary style is rooted in a classic French foundation, which she interprets with a wonderful lightness, modernity, and depth of flavour. With a profound respect for the ingredients, she conjures up dishes driven by herbs, the finest jus, and seasonal vegetables – a masterclass in cooking that is quite rightly crowned with two Michelin stars.

Ambience

The moment you step into the old house, you are wrapped in a wonderful, rustic cosiness. It is a charming old building with Baroque and Biedermeier details that radiates a delightfully intimate atmosphere. Those staying overnight can look forward to one of the nine lovingly designed rooms, which deliberately do without televisions and internet – a true sanctuary to properly wind down. It is simply gezellig, as we would say in Holland.

Service

The service at the Hirschen is nothing short of magnificent and second to none. I remember a trip where I called spontaneously from the car: even though the restaurant was completely fully booked, the team flexibly worked their magic to find an extra table for us. The warmth is genuine, the attentiveness superb, and the charming Lilly ensures you feel like a valued regular from the very first moment.

Food & Wine

Let us get to the heart of the matter: the food. Douce’s cuisine is characterised by a precision and depth of flavour that blows me away every single time. Every dish bursts with richness and esprit, yet the portions are perfectly sized, allowing you to enjoy your way through the menu with a wonderful lightness. An absolutely lekker experience! When it comes to the wine, the list is solid and well-curated. For absolute wine geeks like me, the selection and glassware are decent, but the spotlight here is firmly on the magnificent food, which is harmoniously accompanied by the wines.

Guides & Press — My View

The major guides shower the Hirschen with praise – two Michelin stars and Douce Steiner’s accolade as "Chef of the Year" speak a clear language. And I can only agree wholeheartedly: this is incredibly clever, confident cooking that hits the mark perfectly. The way the seasons are celebrated here in this historic setting is simply, consistently brilliant.

Verdict

The Hirschen in Sulzburg remains one of my absolute favourite restaurants. An all-round magnificent experience with superb service, beautiful rooms, and a cuisine that simply sparkles with joie de vivre. My only, tiny little criticism, with a wink? Sadly, the restaurant is not right on my doorstep in Zürich! But for this level of quality, any journey is well worth it.