Crispy Pizza Bliss in the Heart of Lugano

Sometimes it takes nothing more than excellent craftsmanship and glowing passion to make me happy. During my recent visit to Acqua e Farina in Lugano, I was able to experience how real magic is created on the plate from simple ingredients. Anyone who stops by here can look forward to one of the best pizzas in Ticino – an uncomplicated pleasure that is simply great fun.

Location & History

The restaurant is located in the historic heart of Lugano at Via Canova 9, just a few steps from the picturesque lakeside promenade and the lively Piazza della Riforma. It is housed on the ground floor of an elegant, historic palazzo, which today also home to the Romanian Honorary Consulate. In these historic surroundings, enveloped by venerable churches, the eatery has quietly become one of the most important addresses for lovers of Italian dough artistry.

The Chef

Behind the magnificent creations from the oven stands none other than Castrese Mallardo. The head pizzaiolo is a true master of his craft and has long been a celebrity in Ticino. With his traditional Neapolitan dough management and an unerring eye for first-class Italian ingredients, he has baked his way to numerous titles – including victory at the Swiss Pizza Championship 2024 and outstanding rankings at the World Championships in Parma. You can feel his passion in every single bite, because this man lives for the perfect dough.

Ambience

Now, let's not kid ourselves: Acqua e Farina might not be the very first address for a romantic marriage proposal. The restaurant is located in the old patio of a shopping centre, which gives it a somewhat functional character. It is simply furnished, yet immensely likeable and gezellig. You simply sit down yourself, enjoy the lively atmosphere and focus entirely on what is served on the table. An unpretentious place where the product takes centre stage.

Service

The service is wonderfully uncomplicated, swift and exceptionally friendly. The ladies and gentlemen in service whirl through the room with a smile and make sure you feel welcome straight away. The processes are absolutely correct and speedy – perfect for a relaxed lunch or a carefree evening with friends.

Food & Wine

Let's get to the real heart of the matter: the pizza. I ventured to try the highly creative variation called "Figgy Leinders" – topped with wafer-thin potato slices and the finest pork. The waitress charmingly warned me beforehand that it was a rather heavy "winter pizza", but nou nou, what a poem! The dough was technically absolutely flawless, airy and with a wonderful aroma. However, anyone looking for seafood or a large selection of fish will be rather disappointed here; the focus is very clearly on the art of baking. A small drop of bitterness is the wine list. This is very manageable and unfortunately offers little earth-shattering for demanding wine lovers like me. The glasses are decent, but if you are looking for fine drops, you are in the wrong place. Here, it is best to drink an uncomplicated beer or a simple house wine with the grandiose pizza.

Guides & Press — My View

The renowned guides such as "50 Top Pizza" and GaultMillau regularly heap praise on this "Excellent Pizzeria" – and I can only agree. The artisanal class of the pizzas is beyond any doubt. The criticism from the Luciano Pignataro portal that the wine list still has significant room for improvement also coincides exactly with my experience. While the pizza embodies absolute world class, the liquid accompaniment still lags behind a bit.

Verdict

Acqua e Farina is a real stroke of luck for Lugano. Even if the ambience in the shopping centre is simple and the wine list has room for improvement, the fantastic, masterfully crafted pizza by Castrese Mallardo makes up for everything. Anyone looking for honest, Italian baking artistry without much fuss will love this place.