Felix Lo Basso: An Evening Between Ambition and Reality

A spontaneous call, a wonderful lady on the phone, great anticipation – my visit to Felix Lo Basso in Sorengo began under the best of auspices. Yet, at the end of this evening by the picturesque Lake Muzzano, I sit here wondering where the soul of this otherwise so promising place has gone. It was an evening that started well, but unfortunately lost its lustre noticeably as the hours went by.

Location & History

The Felix Lo Basso restaurant is nestled in an idyllic hillside location in Sorengo near Lugano, offering a picturesque view of the Lake Muzzano nature reserve. The historic building previously housed the renowned, Michelin-starred restaurant Sant'Abbondio by top chef Martin Dalsass for many years. After relocating from Milan, chef Felix Lo Basso revived this tradition-steeped location in 2024 with a modern fine-dining concept.

The Chef

Felice "Felix" Lo Basso is the owner and head chef of the establishment, whose career has taken him through stages in the Val Gardena, to Milan, and back to his native Apulia, before finally relocating his entire concept to Sorengo in 2024. His creative, sophisticated, and often playful cuisine blends his southern Italian roots from Apulia with alpine influences from his time in South Tyrol. A central element of his concept in Sorengo is the intimate "Chef's Table" for just 12 people, where he serves an ever-changing surprise menu directly at the counter. For his work, he has already been awarded a star in the Guide Michelin Switzerland 2025.

Ambience

The location is prachtig – hidden away almost like in a small, dense jungle, wonderfully quiet and close to nature. The terrace is wonderfully inviting, and the interior is also extremely stylish and tastefully decorated. A few pesky mosquitoes on the terrace were elegantly dealt with using provided mosquito spray. The ambience gets a solid four out of five stars from me, as it truly is a gezellig place to linger, if only everything else fell into place.

Service

The service started out extremely friendly and attentive, but unfortunately, the house of cards quickly collapsed when the terrace filled up with just eight guests. When I have to pour my own water and wine in a fine dining establishment because the staff lose sight of the table, it hurts my hospitality-loving heart. There was a lack of basic training and the necessary professionalism; there was no amuse-bouche, no playful sweet treats with the coffee, and at the end, not even an offer to call us a taxi. When asked if the menu was now finished, the waiter merely replied casually: "Shall we do a little dance as well?" Nou nou, that is a touch too informal.

Food & Wine

We chose the "Mare" menu at 130 Swiss Francs for four courses. The starter of scallop tartare was visually beautiful, but to my taste, it could have done with a bit more pep and seasoning. The subsequent pasta was simply superbly cooked and precisely executed. The turbot in the main course, served as a poached roll with vegetables, was technically well-prepared but remained somewhat pale in terms of flavour. Disappointing was the extra-ordered Fritto Misto for a hefty 55 Francs: it had simply spent too long in the deep fryer, was dry, and the prawns had lost their delicate sweetness – one eats far better on the Italian coast for a fraction of the price. The dessert with mint ice cream, on the other hand, was technically outstanding and very harmonious. The wine list is decent, but demands ambitious prices for some items, such as a Krug Champagne for 690 Francs. On a positive note, you are allowed to bring your own bottle for a fair corkage fee.

Verdict

It pains my heart, but in the end, this evening lacked passion and soul. The kitchen undoubtedly possesses the technical skill for a Michelin star, but the execution feels strangely loveless and emotionless – that passion simply doesn't translate onto the guest's plate. Combined with the weak service, I unfortunately cannot recommend the restaurant at present, despite the dreamlike setting.