Felix Lo Basso: An Evening Between Ambition and Reality

A spontaneous call, a wonderful lady on the phone, great anticipation—my visit to Felix Lo Basso in Sorengo started under the best of signs. Yet at the end of this evening by the picturesque Lake Muzzano, I sit here wondering where the soul of this otherwise so promising place has gone. It was an evening that started well, but unfortunately lost its luster noticeably as the hours went by.

Location & History

The Felix Lo Basso restaurant is situated in an idyllic hillside location in Sorengo near Lugano, offering a picturesque view of the Lake Muzzano nature reserve. The history-rich building previously housed the renowned, Michelin-starred restaurant Sant'Abbondio by top chef Martin Dalsass for many years. After relocating from Milan, chef Felix Lo Basso breathed new life into this tradition-steeped location in 2024 with a modern fine dining concept.

The Chef

Felice "Felix" Lo Basso is the owner and head chef of the establishment, whose career has taken him through stations in the Val Gardena, to Milan, and to his home region of Puglia, before he finally relocated his entire concept to Sorengo in 2024. His creative, sophisticated, and often playful cuisine combines his southern Italian roots from Puglia with alpine influences from his time in South Tyrol. A central element of his concept in Sorengo is the intimate "Chef's Table" for just 12 people, where he serves an ever-changing surprise menu directly at the counter. For his work, he has already been awarded one star in the Michelin Guide Switzerland 2025.

Ambience

The location is gorgeous—hidden away almost like in a small, dense jungle, wonderfully quiet and close to nature. The terrace is wonderfully inviting, and the indoor area is also extremely stylish and tastefully furnished. A few pesky mosquitoes on the terrace were elegantly dealt with using provided mosquito spray. The ambience gets a solid rating of four out of five stars from me, because it truly is a cozy and welcoming place to linger, if only everything else were right.

Service

The service started out extremely friendly and attentive, but unfortunately, the house of cards quickly collapsed once the terrace filled up with just eight guests. When I have to pour my own water and wine in a fine dining establishment because the staff loses sight of the table, it hurts my hospitality-loving heart. There was a lack of basic training and the necessary professionalism; there was no amuse-bouche, no playful sweet treats with the coffee, and in the end, not even the question of whether they could call us a taxi. When asked if the menu was now finished, the waiter merely replied casually, "Shall we perform another dance?" Well, well, that is a touch too informal after all.

Food & Wine

We chose the "Mare" menu for 130 Swiss Francs for four courses. The starter of scallop tartar was visually beautiful, but to my taste, it could have used a bit more pep and seasoning. The pasta that followed was simply outstandingly cooked and precisely executed. The turbot in the main course, served as a poached roll with vegetables, was technically well-made but remained a bit pale in flavor. Disappointing was the extra-ordered Fritto Misto for a hefty 55 Francs: it was simply left in the deep fryer too long, dry, and the shrimp had lost their delicate sweetness—you can eat far better for a fraction of the price on the Italian coast. The dessert with mint ice cream, on the other hand, was technically superb and very harmonious. The wine list is decent, but demands ambitious prices for some items, such as a Krug Champagne for 690 Francs. On a positive note, you are allowed to bring your own bottle for a fair corkage fee.

Conclusion

It pains my heart, but in the end, this evening lacked passion and soul. The kitchen undoubtedly possesses the technical skill for a Michelin star, but the execution feels strangely loveless and emotionless—this passion simply does not reach the guest's plate. Combined with the weak service, I unfortunately cannot recommend the restaurant at this time, despite the dreamlike setting.