Gong Milan: Elegant Far Eastern Magic in the Heart of Lombardy

Sometimes a single visit simply isn't enough to fully grasp the complexity of a truly outstanding kitchen. That is why I placed myself in the hands of the wonderful team at Gong Oriental Attitude twice over the course of one weekend. My conclusion upfront: they bridge Far Eastern traditions and Italian flair with captivating precision that completely delights. A prachtig overall experience that is second to none in Milan.

The Chef

At the helm, Executive Chef Guglielmo Paolucci holds sway with an impressive masterly touch. His career has taken him through renowned kitchens, working alongside Antonio Guida at the legendary Il Pellicano, as well as stints at Mirabelle in Rome and Villa d'Amelia. Since 2017, he has shaped the culinary direction at Gong under the vision of owner Giulia Liu. Paolucci understands masterfully how to weave Far Eastern heritage with Western haute cuisine. Supported by traditional masters like Zuo Cuibing at the wok station, he achieves a synthesis of top-tier Italian ingredients and Asian techniques that is simply thrilling.

Ambience

The restaurant greets you with a truly spectacular design concept. The illuminated onyx gongs set imposing architectural accents, whilst the lighting design creates a warm, vibrant and immensely inviting atmosphere. Anyone fearing a stiff, formal room will be pleasantly surprised: for all its elegance, the setting feels wonderfully gezellig and full of charm.

Service

The service operates at the absolute top of its game – attentive, warm-hearted and always on hand at precisely the right moment. The sommelier in particular enriched my evening: his passion for fine vintages is infectious, and his recommendations from the impeccably curated wine list hit the mark with absolute precision for every course. The beautifully matched glassware further underlined their high standards.

Food & Wine

On Friday evening, I devoted myself to the Evoluzione tasting menu. From the very first amuses-bouches, there was an extraordinary level of precision and variety of texture – the beef tartare with mustard seeds made for a wonderful opening. What followed was a breathtaking caviar tartlet and a red prawn sashimi that could hardly be beaten for freshness. The wagyu bites and perfectly folded dim sum displayed flawless craftsmanship. A genuine highlight was the fusion pasta with its deep, aromatic filling, followed by fresh noodle variations and noble seafood.

It was only with the sweet conclusion that a classic minor phenomenon of many high-end Asian restaurants emerged: the mango dessert was certainly lekker and refreshing, but it fell just a little short compared to the dazzling savoury courses. The subsequent petit fours, however, made complete amends. During my second visit on Sunday, the Peking duck took centre stage – fantastic in flavour, even if the small duck cake could have been served a touch more piping hot for my taste. Nou nou, but that is picking holes at an extremely high level!

Guides & Press — My Take

The culinary press is rightly pouring on the praise: the MICHELIN Guide already awards the establishment a well-deserved recommendation. If you ask me, the restaurant delivers a consistently magnificent experience that effortlessly sits at a rock-solid one-star level! Falstaff also awards an impressive 96 points, praising Giulia Liu for conducting the house like an invisible orchestra. Some critics from Dissapore have in the past complained of a stiff, cold atmosphere – I must passionately disagree! I experienced the dining room as lively, warm and extraordinarily welcoming. Nor do I share the occasional criticism regarding the menu length: the cadence of the Evoluzione menu was paced to perfection, making every minute a delight.

The Verdict

Gong Oriental Attitude comes with my highest recommendation for anyone seeking something truly special in Milan. Guglielmo Paolucci and Giulia Liu deliver a seamlessly harmonious, immensely elegant and deeply flavourful experience. An evening spent here is sheer joy – you will be utterly enchanted!