Splendour, Lake Breezes and the Best Breakfast in Lugano

Sometimes it doesn't take much to make me completely happy – a glorious view of the glittering Lake Lugano, a touch of nostalgic grand hotel charm, and a breakfast that leaves even the most demanding palates in reverent silence. My recent visit to the historic Hotel Splendide Royal in Lugano was just such a journey of pure indulgence, even if a tiny sigh lurked here and there behind the glamorous Belle Époque façade. A magnificently situated house that you simply have to experience, even if not every detail is pitch-perfect.

Location & History

The Hotel Splendide Royal reigns in an absolutely privileged position right on the picturesque lakeside promenade, Riva Antonio Caccia. The roots of this architectural jewel date back to the 1870s, when the elegant Villa Merlina was built here in the Baroque style. In 1887, the property was transformed into the Hotel Splendide, which quickly became a magnet for European high society and global stars such as Sophia Loren and Ella Fitzgerald. Since 1977, the Italian Naldi family has managed the house with palpable passion, bestowing upon it the well-deserved, majestic addition of "Royal".

The Chef

Since February 2024, Executive Chef Marco Veneruso has been responsible for the culinary soul of the house. His impressive career has taken him through the renowned Michelin-starred kitchens of the Four Seasons in Florence and Milan under his mentor Vito Mollica, before earning his first Michelin star of his own at the Bulgari Hotel in Beijing. Veneruso's style is a love letter to his Campanian homeland and the Amalfi Coast, which he masterfully marries with the finest produce of Ticino. His signature is modern, precise and deeply aromatic.

Ambience

Anyone who loves the classic, stately grand hotel style will feel instantly at home here. The entire house exudes a wonderfully nostalgic, noble atmosphere. We stayed in room 204, one of the patio rooms with a truly breathtaking view of the lake. However, I must confess with a slight, charming frown: the rooms and bathrooms look somewhat tired and worn in places. A few stains on the carpet and minor paint damage on the furniture do not quite match the proud prices charged here. It is therefore a blessing that a comprehensive, multi-year renovation of the historic rooms has been underway since summer 2026 – this will visibly do the magnificent building a world of good!

Service

The team in the restaurant area is simply fantastic – attentive, warm and professional. Nevertheless, there were a few minor stumbling blocks in the service that really shouldn't happen in this category. Upon our arrival on the slope, there was unfortunately no one on hand to help with the heavy luggage – nou nou, that was a rather lonely check-in! Room service also showed weaknesses: the wine list we requested unfortunately never found its way to our room. If you travel with a loyal four-legged friend as we did, they are pampered with a basket and treats, but freedom of movement within the hotel is quite severely restricted.

Food & Wine

Let us come to the absolute highlight: breakfast at the Hotel Splendide Royal is simply phenomenal – for me, without a doubt, the best in all of Lugano! What the in-house pastry chef conjures up here in the morning is first-class. The Eggs Benedict were an absolute dream, perfectly poached and refined with excellent summer truffle and a fine pinch of Fleur de Sel, which elevated the flavour wonderfully. Everything on the buffet was fresh, of exquisite quality and simply lekker. One small drop of bitterness remained: as the Michelin-starred restaurant "I Due Sud" offers only seven tables, it was unfortunately impossible for us as hotel guests to secure a table at short notice. It is essential that contingents are kept free for house guests here.

Guides & Press — My View

The culinary guides are full of praise: the Michelin star and 16 GaultMillau points for "I Due Sud", as well as the 14 points for the restaurant "La Veranda", are absolutely justified when you consider the culinary quality in the house. In the press, the lack of direct lake access is sometimes criticised – which is a pity, but manageable given the fantastic location on the promenade. Happily, I cannot confirm the occasional reports of arrogant service at the bar at all; we were received with the utmost charm everywhere.

Conclusion

The Hotel Splendide Royal is and remains an institution in Lugano. Even if the rooms could currently do with a gentle refresh and the service still needs a little fine-tuning in the details, the magnificent gastronomy – above all the world-class breakfast – compensates for almost everything. A wonderfully gezellig place full of history, which I warmly recommend to any epicurean for a long weekend on the Lago di Lugano.