Vibrant Grand-Hotel Classicism on Lake Lugano

Sometimes it doesn't take culinary quantum leaps to end an evening in complete happiness. At Ristorante La Veranda in Lugano, I was able to experience a wonderfully lively, uncomplicated evening which, despite minor technical weaknesses, remains in the memory thanks to its magnificent views and wonderfully warm atmosphere. For me, an absolutely successful visit that I would highly recommend to you for your next trip to Ticino.

Location & History

Ristorante La Veranda sits in a prime location directly on the picturesque lakeside promenade Riva Antonio Caccia in the historic five-star superior hotel Splendide Royal. This magnificent house, which once began as the stately Villa Merlina, looks back on over 130 years of history and shapes the image of the Loreto district on Lake Lugano in neoclassical Lombard style. Through the generous window front, you can enjoy a wide, almost magical view of the glittering water and the surrounding Alpine peaks while dining – a truly prachtvoller setting for a dinner.

The Chef

Since February 2024, Marco Veneruso has been Executive Chef at the hotel Splendide Royal, and thus also directs the fortunes of La Veranda. His culinary signature was significantly shaped by his mentor Vito Mollica in the kitchens of the Four Seasons hotels, before he earned his first Michelin star at the Bulgari Hotel in Beijing in 2019. After a stint in Prague, he now combines Mediterranean and Neapolitan traditions with modern techniques in Ticino. At La Veranda, he focuses on an upscale but accessible cuisine that is simply extremely lekker.

Ambiance

The ambience is wonderfully lively – here the room hums with voices and laughter, quite unlike some stiff gourmet temples where it is as quiet as a mouse in an art gallery. This liveliness is good for the soul! However, one can feel that the historic house is showing its age. If you look closely, you will spot double-glazed plastic windows facing the busy road – unfortunately, they saved money in the wrong place there, well-intentioned but not quite pulled off. Nevertheless, the classic grand-hotel flair is extremely cosy and simply gezellig.

Service

The service is wonderfully classic with great table service, but is almost a little too eager. No sooner have you swallowed your last bite than the next waiter is already standing in a queue in front of your table – here, a touch more serenity and a five-minute breathing space for the guest would be desirable. Despite this minor over-eagerness, the service was consistently attentive, extremely friendly and characterised by a charming warmth. A small drop of bitterness: my beloved dog Lilli was unfortunately not allowed into the restaurant.

Food & Wine

The culinary journey started with a real highlight: the beef tartare was prepared directly at the table. Even though the meat was minced and not chopped by hand, it tasted excellent, especially in combination with the fine garlic bread. The homemade, rustic bread with first-class butter beforehand was also a poem. The subsequent linguine – a dry pasta cooked perfectly al dente – was wonderfully fresh and harmoniously seasoned. With the sea bass in a salt crust, however, a small Lugano phenomenon emerged: as is so often the case in the area, it was minimally overcooked, even if technically better executed than by many a competitor.

When it comes to wine, my heart naturally beats faster. The list is small but fine. If you go searching like a truffle pig, you will discover real bargains in the premium segment with amazingly guest-friendly margins – while other bottles are calculated with an almost threefold markup. The wine service itself was extremely down-to-earth (open bottle, pour, done), and the wine glasses could certainly be a bit sexier for a house of this category. But that is complaining at a high level.

Guides & Press — My View

With 14 Gault&Millau points and 89 Falstaff points, La Veranda is solidly rated. I completely share this assessment. No intellectual cinema of the mind is served here, but thoroughly honest, technically good food in a wonderful traditional establishment. Those looking for absolute perfection may find fault with the small details, but those who want to celebrate life and classic cuisine are in exactly the right place.

The Verdict

With four out of five stars, Ristorante La Veranda is an absolute recommendation for an enjoyable evening in Lugano. The combination of the lively atmosphere, the fantastic view of the lake and the honest, tasty cuisine is simply great fun. Do go, enjoy the classics and let yourself be pampered by the charming service – it's well worth it!