Sunshine and Shadows on Lake Lugano

Sometimes it is the contrasts that make a journey unforgettable, though not always in a positive sense. My recent visit to the newly renovated Swiss Diamond Hotel in Vico Morcote showed me once again that a breathtaking backdrop and warm service can make you almost forget a struggling kitchen – but only almost. It was a stay full of bright spots, but also with a few shadows that you simply shouldn't expect in this price bracket.

Location & History

The Swiss Diamond Hotel Lugano is a renowned five-star resort right on the shores of Lake Lugano in the picturesque municipality of Vico Morcote. Originally built in 1969, the property was officially inaugurated as a luxury hotel in 2000 by entrepreneur Behgjet Pacolli’s Mabetex Group. The architecture combines a modern, clean-lined facade with classic Italian interior design. Following a comprehensive, five-month modernisation in spring 2026, the hotel now presents itself with state-of-the-art infrastructure, direct views of the lake and the UNESCO World Heritage site Monte San Giorgio.

The Chef

For over 20 years, Egidio Iadonisi has been responsible as Executive Chef for the culinary direction of the Swiss Diamond group, including the local restaurant Lago. His cuisine is heavily influenced by his Campanian roots from Benevento and focuses on a Mediterranean world of flavours, which he refines with local Ticino products. With his creations, he has earned a respectable 13 Gault&Millau points in the past. He is also a regular representative of Ticino gastronomy at high-profile culinary events. During my visit, I unfortunately couldn't feel this brilliance; I had the feeling that even the tapas urgently needed a reset. The tartare was indeed a pleasure, but the calamari were a technical failure and not really a proper dish at all.

Ambience

The ambience is simply prachtvoll – a straight five out of five points! If you travel here, make sure to book a room with a lake view. We stayed in the Presidential Suite on the corner of the hotel with a huge balcony, from which you feel as if you are floating directly above the deep blue water. It is not an impersonal hotel block, but with around 50 rooms, it is pleasantly manageable, wonderfully gezellig and picturesque. The pool area invites you to dream, and in the evening we enjoyed a table right by the water – even if the passing guest traffic disturbed the intimacy a little.

Service

The service is the true soul of this house. The team around Arturo, Mauro, Pietro and the attentive restaurant manager did everything to anticipate our every wish. A special chapeau goes to Arturo, who guided us through the world of wine on Saturday evening before dinner with incredible expertise, passion and various tasting sips. A small fly in the five-star ointment: the arrival was bumpy, as our small dog Lily was not allowed in the hotel's own shuttle and the English skills on the phone had room for improvement. There are also no dog-friendly touches in the room, such as a basket or a bowl. Furthermore, after a three-hour absence, the room had still not been cleaned, the used breakfast dishes were still sitting around, and the glass from the previous evening had not been cleared away either. Also a pity: for the best suite in the house, there were no reserved loungers by the pool. The friendly gentlemen at the pool made up for this, but there are definitely still a few points here that urgently need to be addressed.

Food & Wine

Now to the problem child of the house: the food. We chose the "Diamond" menu for a hefty 160 francs. While the amuse-bouche – a classic Vitello Tonnato – and a perfectly tempered tuna were convincing, things unfortunately went downhill after that. The pasta on my plate was simply overcooked and turned out far too heavy and creamy. With the duck, the cooking was spot on, but the skin was unfortunately as flabby as an empty car tyre. The absolute low point was the dessert: carelessly assembled, extremely sweet and lacking in technical skill – it seemed almost cobbled together from ready-made pastry cases. Breakfast was also a disappointment: the croissants seemed like baked-up frozen goods, the butter came in plastic tubs and the orange juice was from a carton – nou nou, a five-star establishment can really do better than that!

On Sunday morning, we ordered breakfast to the room again. This time it was much better handled – the table was beautifully laid this time, prachtvoll, hè! Nevertheless, the same weaknesses with the bread were apparent as the day before, and the Bircher muesli was a touch too sweet for my personal taste. In addition, the service forgot the charcuterie and the oat milk cappuccino. But here too, the staff were exceptionally friendly despite the minor slip-ups. On the other hand, the wine list put us in a forgiving mood: the selection, especially of Franciacorta, is fine, and the prices are extremely fairly calculated (a bottle of Krug champagne for 460 francs is a real statement).

Verdict

The Swiss Diamond Hotel is a beautiful place for a getaway, supported by a fantastic, warm service team and a dream location. Culinarially, however, the kitchen urgently needs to step up its game in 2026 – I think a complete reset is needed here to live up to its own standards and the proud prices. For a glass of wine by the lake and the grandiose view, we would gladly return; for the grand tasting menu, we will probably head elsewhere next time.