Maritime elegance and grand cuisine with a headwind

A spectacular view over Lake Lugano, a cuisine full of finesse, and a service that unfortunately reaches its limits: my visit to THE VIEW Lugano was a real rollercoaster of emotions. While the kitchen of Diego Della Schiava convinces all along the line, the management noticeably leaves its service team in the lurch. Nevertheless, there is a culinary gem hidden here that you should not miss on your next visit to Ticino.

Location & History

The exclusive five-star boutique hotel sits in a spectacular hillside location in the quiet residential district of Paradiso at the foot of Monte San Salvatore. Since its opening in 2015, the building has impressed with its avant-garde architecture made of fine marine teak and glass, designed by Ticino architect Luca Gazzaniga. The entire interior design is modelled on a modern luxury yacht, giving the hotel a very special, sophisticated atmosphere. As a proud member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World, the establishment sets new standards in the local luxury hotel industry.

The Chef

Executive Chef Diego Della Schiava has shaped the restaurant since its opening and has been rewarded for his creations with a Michelin star and 16 points in Gault&Millau. He received his training at the renowned Italian culinary school ALMA under the direction of the legendary Gualtiero Marchesi. After stints with greats such as Niko Romito and Andrea Berton, he found his home in Ticino. His cuisine is a colourful, modern interpretation of Mediterranean gastronomy, which he skilfully refines with Asian accents.

Ambience

The setting in the restaurant is extremely modern, but in places feels a little sterile and clinical. The view from the terrace over the bay of Lugano is prachtvoll, but inside the crowd is very casual. For my taste, the design is a little too cool, but the spectacular backdrop makes up for a lot. Gezellig is perhaps another word, but the view compensates for quite a bit.

Service

This is unfortunately the Achilles' heel of the establishment. Even the welcome in the underground car park, which feels like an ordinary shopping centre, was cold and not very warm. It was, nou nou, a rather weak start for a house of this class. The biggest problem: the team is hopelessly understaffed. The staff on site are super friendly and try hard, but they only have two legs after all. Dear owners, please give this talented team more colleagues! Only as the evening progressed did the attentiveness increase noticeably, which was mainly due to two excellent hosts: the service from Giovanni was simply outstanding, and the excellent sommelier Stephan guided us through the evening with great expertise. So, after the initial stumbling blocks, it turned out to be a really strong finish after all!

Food & Wine

Culinary-wise, the evening was a real experience. After fine aperitif bites – including a fun watermelon sushi – we started with a perfectly cooked langoustine, which convinced with wonderful acidity and texture. An absolute highlight was the risotto with shaved egg yolk and smoked onion – prachtvoll seasoned and technically flawless. The red mullet with courgette crisps and a deep fish demi-glace was also simply brilliant. The wine pairing by Stephan was calculated to a tee, even if the wine list overall commands rather sporty prices. To finish, a mille-feuille with truffle shone at a solid one-star level. That was really super lekker, hè!

Guides & Press — My View

Gault&Millau praises the highly complex creations, but notes that they can overwhelm the guest in places. I can partially understand this criticism – the combination of strawberry spaghetti and scallop was technically well cooked, but as a dish it was more of a daring experiment for me. I completely agree with the Michelin Guide: the finesse and quality of Della Schiava's dishes absolutely justify the star. I do not share the occasional criticism on online portals regarding rude service – the team is simply understaffed, but works with a big heart.

Verdict

THE VIEW Lugano offers outstanding cuisine in a unique maritime setting. If the management can get a grip on the staffing situation in service, nothing stands in the way of an all-round perfect evening. Despite the weak start, the restaurant is ultimately a real experience with a strong finish, thanks to Diego Della Schiava's culinary artistry, the great service from Giovanni, and Stephan's wine pairing. An absolute recommendation for your next visit!